Sunrise behind the still-unclimbed Macchapuchare or “Fish Tail Peak” from Poon Hill on the Annapurna Circuit Trek, Nepal Photo: Dan Passler
Newly-built roads now reach nearly all the way around Nepal’s Annapurna Circuit, the most popular long trek in the world. Is the journey is still worth the effort? Probably not, if you’re going with a big tour company that hasn’t updated their itinerary. Yes, if you plan your route carefully.
Back in the 1970’s, the Annapurna Circuit was an epic expedition crossing a 17,500 foot pass around some of the highest, most dangerous mountains in the Himalaya, through villages that had seen few Westerners. In the 80’s it became a well worn 3-week path trodden by savvy trekkers. By the 1990’s trekking companies were cashing in selling expeditionary “camping treks” while local Nepalis built elaborate lodges all the way around the circuit to cater to roughly 30,000 trekkers a year. Now, the Annapurna Circuit is undergoing a rapid transformation on an almost daily basis, with roads on the Kali Gandaki side reaching all the way to Muktinath and roads on the east side reaching to Bhulbule. The funny thing is, most tour companies just keep selling it as if it never changed.
So is it still worth going? If you want to stick to the traditional path, no way (unless you do it as a gonzo mountain bike trip). Give it the miss, go elsewhere. Whatever you do, don’t do a regular Annapurna Circuit trip itinerary. You’ll be sucking truck exhaust, you’ll see villages that have seen far too many tourists, and you’ll learn to loathe the vehicle noise. You’ll experience a mere shadow of what the trip used to be.
If, on the other hand, you’ve still got a bit of adventure in you, then the answer is, absolutely! You just have to plan better. Yes, there are roads, but, with careful planning or a good guide, you can still trek nearly the entire way through villages on the other side of the valley from the roads and avoid, for most part, the most touristed villages.
For the real adventurer, there’s the Annapurna Triple Bypass. Crossing passes, like the Mesokanto La, Kang La, and Namun La that see only a few dozen trekkers a year, you can circle Annapurna in 3-4 weeks on far more adventurous route. No one sells it, but I wouldn’t do the Annapurna Circuit any other way at this point.
Feel free to contact me if you want the scoop or for more info, checkout InsidrInfo.com’s page on the Annapurna Circuit.
Posts
It sounds like Machu Picchu all over again. Nothing says, “magical” like watching the sunrise on Machu Picchu while hearing leaf blowers. Thanks for the post, I’ll keep this in mind.
October 5, 2009 @ 1:18 pm
Well put, Kevin. I’m going to use that line.
October 5, 2009 @ 1:21 pm
yep agreed what you said. Due to roads and all those vehicles circuit seems to be dead but people living in these part are poor and underdeveloped they need some means of transportation desperately. Its a time for Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) to think about alternate trail for tourists.
October 5, 2009 @ 2:21 pm
Yes, Rojan, for sure, if the ACAP worked with trekking companies to mandate a route through it would be a huge help to many villages that don’t see many trekkers, and would make for a much better experience for trekkers on the Annapurna Circuit.
October 5, 2009 @ 3:36 pm
I was in Nepal last year, and did the Annapurna Sanctuary trek, which weaves its way up a valley to Annapurna Base Camp. I saw the sunrise from Poon Hill too (though your photo is prettier than mine!).
No roads, just endless stone staircases, terraced farms, quaint tea houses with gorgeous mountain views, and did I mention the stone staircases!?
But I heard about the roads being extended by others who did the Circuit, and it certainly turned me off to doing it someday in the future. Anytime a trek gains the nickname “apple pie trail” you know it is doomed.
Luckily, there’s enough of Nepal which isn’t going to be paved anytime soon to ensure trekkers can enjoy themselves for a long time to come.
October 5, 2009 @ 9:35 pm
Yes, there are some great options for people not afraid to do something a little off the beaten track and the Annapurna Sanctuary is a good short option, for sure, although the number of robberies and attacks on solo travelers there are a bit distressing.
October 6, 2009 @ 1:59 pm
Well I leave to do the trek in a week…this post was depressing. Not going with big tour, so will see if we can stay off the road a bit.
October 6, 2009 @ 7:39 pm
Sherry, It’s still an amazing trek, this headline was perhaps a bit melodromatic – You’ll have a great time no matter what! My issue is with trekking companies that refuse to innovate and guide the same old route, which is so straightforward you’ll be kicking yourself for having a guide. Definitely check out InsidrInfo’s description of the Annapurna Circuit and the links there for ideas. Also check out this article on Mountain Kingdom’s new itinerary http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/travel/destinations/asia/article6111968.ece
October 7, 2009 @ 3:03 pm
[...] Tja, und das war es dann auch schon mit der Schönheit Annapurnas im Himalaya. Was einmal der wohl bekanntest Trek der Welt war ist jetzt bequem mit dem Auto zu erreichen. Möglich machen es neue Straßen die gerade fertig gestellt wurden. Vom Hotel aus dauert es nur ein paar Minuten. In den 70er Jahren war der Annapurna-Trek noch ein großes Abenteuer entlang der höchstens Gipfel der Erde, durch Dörfer die kaum einen Ausländer zuvor gesehen hatten. In den 80ern reichten 3 Wochen aus für einen Wanderung und in den 90ern begann der Verkauf an die großen Reiseveranstalter. Lodges und Camping Site beherbergen 30.000 Wanderer pro Jahr. Nun gibt es eben auch noch eine Straße and der Kali Gandaki Seite bis nach Muktinath und ander Ostseite bis nach Bhulbule. Viele Reiseveranstalter allerdings verkaufen das Gebiet immer noch als ob sich nichts verändert hätte. Dabei ist die Wahrscheinlichkeit, statt guter Luft LKW Abgase zu atmen eher groß. [...]
October 19, 2009 @ 9:23 pm
I agree with most of the comments that the Annapurna Circuit is way too comercialized!
I recently finished a consultancy with the UN-ILO where we developed 2 new trekking routes in Ramechhap district just south of Mt Everest as part of a Pro-Poor Employment Creation Strategy. As far as I know, I am the only ‘westerner’ to have gone on either of these treks. Embracing the unexplored/remoteness competive advantage the district, the ILO assisted with the development and organization of the Numbur Cheese Circuit and Indegenous Peoples Trail in a response.
With very basic infrastructure upgrades and tourism training for locals having JUST (October 2009) been completed, the locals are very interested to meet new ‘westerners’. A locally elected District Tourism Development Committe has been established in order to avoid extreme commercialization of the area such as the case in the Annapurnas.
If you are looking for a flash back to a “70’s experience” trek, these 2 treks definately offer that. You can easily use the local guides and porters rather than paying the obsene sum that some foriegn charge. If you do use a foriegn agency be SURE to ask them what the local Nepali’s will be paid and confirm that with the locals when you arrive.
The new websites are nearly finished (Nepali time!). For a rough overview of the treks check out wikitravel at the following sites:
NCC – Numbur Cheese Circuit (High Altitude Trekking)
http://wikitravel.org/en/Numbur_Cheese_Circuit
IP Trail – Easy Cultural Trek
http://wikitravel.org/en/Numbur_Cheese_Circuit
Happy Journeys!
October 28, 2009 @ 1:26 pm
Totally Agreed! Nice catch.
Everything is getting commercialized and has good as well as bad aspect.
I have twitted your post.
November 12, 2009 @ 4:42 pm
No, the circuit is not dead! it can not be dead for at least for another century. Your KNOWLEDGE OF THE FACT is twisted. Its ashame if you’re an enthusiast of the Annapurna region. The roads LEADING upto the CIRCUIT are built! and thats good for a country like nepal. I u ever thought that the trek up to the CIRCUIT point itself was a thrilling trek for you, then you have a little knowledge of the region my friend. Annapurna circuit is still in Evolution, there could be 1000 and 1 other routes, but the roads are for the LOCALS, who LIVE their lives in the region forever! i hope you[and other excited comments] re-consider your knowledge of the fact with detailed understanding of the region where i lived in proximity for most of my youthful life.
November 13, 2009 @ 1:01 pm
Interesting point from the local Nepali perspective. This leads to a larger question: Is progress, in the form of roads and infrastructure good for the Annapurna region? I’ve spoken to locals in Muktinath who wish life were simpler and don’t like the way younger Nepalis have adopted Western ways. Roads have accelerated this change. Wealth and prosperity are only one measure of “progress.” What about quality of life? Are Nepali families closer than they were 50 years ago, now that “progress” has come to the region? FYI, there’s a road to Muktinath now, halfway around– it’s gone far beyond roads “leading up to the circuit.”
November 13, 2009 @ 5:38 pm
I f u really did speak with the locals in Muktinath; I hope you’d know that the people from Muktinath pressed the local and the govt. in KTM for road access in the region[fact], ACAP also gave the greenlight because a true Annapurna region enthusiast knows that the region is beyond Muktinath. Muktinath is for the pilgrims who have always demanded for easy access.
How was life NOT simpler with the road? And how easily do u extrapolate and question that are Nepalese familes closer?!!! Nuisance! Many able and youthful nepalese are away from home, India, middle east and some fortunate in the western world and its they who keep help the families, communities and the country run. Do u know that people do not have enuff salt to put in their curry? people die of diarrohea? 40% of people and most of them woman go to bed evry night with half empty stomach?
And the roads, what have they brought in the region? would u please spend some time thinking outside of the unbeaten track.
Nepalese families are always close my friend where ever they are…they work for the family, i can proudly say that.
the roads are nowhere near the Annapurna circuit. the true Annapurna region enthusiasts know this…even a simple map tells u that. And if u choose to be on the road, u r far from the circuit. Think about NOT USING the road and u r there. The ABC and the circuits awaits many for them to c wha it has. I encourage u all, see some life and more of wild, u can do it!!!
November 15, 2009 @ 10:50 am
Yes agreed too, Last year went ACT found new road ,This year Just back from Manaslu Trek passing Dahrapani,Tal …..to Besi Sharha found worker blast n knock to open new road.will never go back again.
November 30, 2009 @ 9:22 pm
been looking for something like this all day
thanks.
January 30, 2010 @ 1:44 pm
Very nice catch.
Maybe I can get original picture?
I have twitted your post.
May 21, 2010 @ 8:08 am